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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.